Is aloe vera the key to perfect skin? Here’s what the science says.

“On TikTok, everyone is talking about, ‘Oh, it’s fun for me,'” said Lacy Gill, assistant director of the Center for Cosmetology, Esthetics and Massage, Houston. “I just want to say, ‘Yeah, maybe it’s good for you. But it’s not really good for the other person.’”

Aloe vera has been used for medicinal purposes for thousands of years; however, the public’s emphasis on “healthy lifestyle” has made the plant popular today, said one review.

The global aloe vera market was valued at $1.6 billion in 2018, and is expected to grow at a compound growth rate of 7.6 percent until 2025, according to Grand View Research, market forecast.

“Anytime you have something that doesn’t require a prescription that somehow comes off the ground and is considered natural, people are going to want to try it,” said David Leffell, director of division of dermatologic and skin oncology at Yale. School of Medicine.

Although dermatologists and other skin care experts say aloe vera is generally safe to use on the scalp, it may not be the solution for everyone. There are also good practices – beyond what is said on social media – that users should follow to reap the desired results.

What is the science about aloe?

Aloe vera is a succulent plant native to Africa and the Arabian Peninsula. It is 96 percent water.

Studies have shown more than 75 compounds, including polysaccharides, vitamins, minerals, enzymes and seven essential amino acids, in the remaining 4 percent, as well as its anti-inflammatory effects , antiviral and antiseptic.

Research has shown that many of the benefits come from the polysaccharides in the clear gel found in the leaves of the aloe.

However, there has been a lack of robust clinical trials to determine the precise mechanism of aloe’s effects, said Oliver Grundmann, clinical professor of medicinal chemistry at the University of Florida College of Pharmacy.

One reason is because the ingredients in aloe vera gel do not require approval from the FDA, as they are sold as cosmetics. Also, isolation Natural products are usually exempt from patentability. Researchers are therefore not encouraged to devote financial resources to understanding how algae works, several experts said.

When there were clinical trials with aloe vera, many were completed in vitro or in mice, added Joseph F. Fowler Jr., clinical professor of dermatology at the University of Louisville School of Medicine.

What scientists do know, Grundmann said, is that aloe vera gel contains glucomannan, a carbohydrate that coats the skin, which reduces the inflammatory response. When used on unbroken skin that doesn’t show signs of deep redness and peeling, aloe vera gel is safe to use topically, he said.

Is store-bought gel as good as plant-based gel?

There is no significant risk associated with store-bought gel, dermatologists said.

But store-bought aloe vera gel isn’t standard, Leffell said. Consumers are left in the dark about how their gel was extracted and what active ingredients, or inactive ingredients, are in it, he added.

Gill said store-bought gel may be more effective for those hoping to use it in their daily skin care routine. (This is because the high evaporation rate of aloe means that the cut leaf does not hold well.)

In these cases, buy clear gel (as the gel occurs naturally) as some contain additives, Gill said. And avoid aloe vera gel sold with the local anesthetic lidocaine; it has less ability to penetrate intact skin, Grundmann said.

How do you harvest green gel?

When harvesting gel from an aloe vera leaf, choose a ripe, fertile leaf, said Missy Gable, director of the University of California Master Gardener program. Cut close to the base of the leaf without damaging the roots. Then clean the leaf with soap and water.

Scrape off the latex, the yellow, foul-smelling sap under the skin of the leaf, said Allison Keeney, assistant director of the University of California at Los Angeles Mathias Botanical Garden.

Research has shown that aloe vera latex contains anthraquinones, which have strong emetic effects and can be harmful, including promoting phototoxicity. “If you’re putting straight latex on your skin, it can be irritating,” Keeney said.

Let the latex drain slowly or, better yet, soak the leaf in water, as aloe dries quickly, Keeney said.

Next, place the leaf on a flat surface, with a rounded edge, Gable said. Cut thin strips from the edges of the leaf, remove its spikes. Finally, use a knife or your thumb to peel off the outer parts of the leaf, leaving only the clear or slightly cloudy part. Refrigerate it in a glass container for up to a week, or freeze the gel for up to a year, Keeney said.

Refrigerating is also recommended, Grundmann said, because glucomannan can degrade if exposed to sunlight over time.

Is aloe vera good for sunburn?

Aloe vera does not protect against sunburn, said Shari Lipner, a dermatologist at Weill Cornell Medicine. Only sunscreen can do that, he said.

However, if sunburn has already occurred, aloe vera can reduce the inflammatory response, which occurs in the body due to UV rays, Grundmann said. “Inflammation basically makes the skin warm because the body wants to destroy anything that invades, for example, bacteria,” he said.

To reduce swelling, start by using a cold water towel on the affected area. Water evaporates from the skin, which helps reduce inflammation. Then use a cool aloe vera gel.

He said that aloe vera gel is more effective than aloe vera products because of the high water content of the gel. Cream “can stick for a longer time, but it is a vapor of [gel] the liquid also causes the skin to heal,” said Grundmann.

Is aloe vera good for skin care?

Aloe vera has anti-inflammatory, exfoliating and hydrating effects, Gill said, making it a great “food” for the skin. In particular, aloe vera gel is good for acne treatment, he said. It can also help repair skin irritation and relieve itching in people with eczema, Fowler said.

Aloe vera can be used as an occasional face mask or as part of a daily skin care routine, Gill said.

As a face mask, use aloe vera gel as a thick layer to cleanse the skin. After waiting 20 minutes, or until the mask dries, wipe off the excess before washing your face with water — not cleanser — she said.

Aloe vera gel also fits well into a multi-step skin care routine. Cleanse and improve your skin. Then apply a thin layer of gel before heavy serums, moisturizers and sunscreen, Gill said. Only a small amount is needed to penetrate the skin, and press instead of applying gel, lest it be a pill on the skin, he added.

Unlike cool aloe vera for sunburn, room temperature aloe vera is best for everyday use.

“You want the skin to be warm, so the product will penetrate and the follicles will expand,” Gill said. And when you make it cold, you touch the follicles, so you won’t get the same kind of penetration.

Use aloe vera gel only if it works for you, dermatologists and estheticians say. But if the aloe treatment does not improve or worsens the skin condition, it is better to see a certified dermatologist, experts said.